Pu Luong Nature Reserve isn’t on most travellers’ radar, and it’s often left out of classic Vietnam itineraries. With so many iconic places to visit – like Halong Bay, Sapa, or Hoi An – it’s legitimate to wonder whether it’s worth spending your limited time in a quiet, lesser-known reserve that doesn’t appear in every guidebook.
We had just two and a half weeks in Vietnam, so we were careful not to waste time in places that felt repetitive or underwhelming. We weren’t sure what to expect from Pu Luong – and honestly hesitated about including it – but I’m glad we did. It turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip.
What makes Pu Luong special and worth visiting?
- Hardly any tourists, especially compared to places like Ninh Binh and Sapa.
- Less litter and development compared to other destinations in Vietnam.
- No touts calling out or pressuring us to enter shops or restaurants or buy souvenirs.
- Splendid views from lush green terraces early in the rice season to golden fields at harvest time.
- Calm mornings and magical nights, with fireflies dancing in the rice fields.
- Genuine, warm interactions with locals who go out of their way to make you feel welcome.
Pu Luong is not flashy or action-packed, but that’s the beauty of it. It’s about slowing down and appreciating what’s around you – the mist rising through the valley, the rhythm of farming life, and the stillness at night. If you’re looking for a peaceful alternative to the busy tourist hotspots in Vietnam, Pu Luong might be just what you need. Nestled in the mountains of northern Vietnam, it offers stunning landscapes of lush rice terraces, traditional stilt houses, and rich cultural experiences, without the crowds.
Things to do in Pu Luong:
A warm welcome and local encounters
On our first day, we visited a small village and a traditional stilt house – an architectural style of the Thai ethnic group – where we learnt about rice farming, weaving, and handmade tools. We even played local games and took a bamboo raft ride. And most of the time, we had the place to ourselves.
Travelling with our private guide Tony (Hieu) and driver Dat felt like exploring with local friends. We picked up a few Vietnamese words, shared meals, and were even pulled into an early-morning karaoke session after being offered some “happy water” (local rice wine) by a cheerful man from the village.
Waterfalls and peaceful scenery
After a tasty lunch of pumpkin soup and banana flower salad (so good we ordered them again at dinner), we visited Hieu Waterfall. The water levels were low in mid-April, but the turquoise pools and forest setting were still beautiful. If you walk past the main pool where most visitors stop, the area becomes quieter and more serene. A few local cafés and eateries are nearby, but it still feels unspoilt.
A night in Don Village
We spent the night in Don Village, which is the most developed area in Pu Luong, but it hasn’t lost its charm. It’s small, calm, and surrounded by rice terraces and mountains. Traditional wooden and bamboo houses overlook the valley, and the entire reserve has a two-storey building limit, so the landscape remains the focus. It’s an ideal base for visiting waterfalls, water wheels, rice fields and caves.
Our stay at Pu Luong Boutique Garden* was one of the best of our trip. Our “premier bungalow with mountain view” had a comfortable balcony, a beautiful bathroom, and a canopy bed draped with a mosquito net. We fell asleep to the sound of frogs and woke up to clouds drifting over the fields.
Exploring Bat Cave
The next morning, we visited Bat Cave, also known as Doi Cave – a massive cave with dramatic rock formations. We walked down to Kho Muong Village, which gave us time to chat with our guide and enjoy the views, but if you’re in a hurry or don’t want to walk too much, you can also pay a local at the top to take you by motorbike.
Some parts of the cave are fitted with steps and railings, but going deeper requires a bit of scrambling. It can be slippery, so good shoes are essential. While we saw a few groups at the entrance, we had the inner cave entirely to ourselves, making it a unique and memorable stop.
Farewell lunch and scenic drive back
We wrapped up our stay with lunch at Sala Homestay* near the Bat Cave, where we were warmly welcomed and served chicken cooked inside a bamboo stick. The drive back to Hanoi took about 4.5 hours. Along the way, we passed through lovely mountain scenery and a lively town (possibly Huu Van), offering a glimpse of daily life far from the tourist trail.
Pu Luong offers more than we had time to explore
If you can stay two nights in Pu Luong, you’ll be able to enjoy it more fully and include:
- Walking or trekking through rice terraces and between local villages, with options for all fitness levels.
- Cultural activities like learning to cook local dishes or joining a craft workshop to learn more about weaving, traditional embroidery or basket making.
- Relaxing at your lodge or homestay, soaking in the views and enjoying coffee and homemade food.
Quick tips for visiting Pu Luong and Don Village
- What to expect: Peaceful countryside and a slower pace without the tourist crowds.
- How long to stay: Ideally 2 nights to have time to relax, explore, and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere.
- How to get there: Around 4.5–5 hours from Hanoi or 3 hours from Ninh Binh. A private driver or tour is the easiest option.
- Where we stayed: Don Village – convenient, scenic, and with a range of boutique hotels and homestays. We loved our night at Pu Luong Boutique Garden*.
- Top highlights: rice terraces with mountains in the background, Bat Cave, traditional stilt houses and water wheels (we didn’t see them anywhere else!).
- What to pack: Good walking shoes (especially for the cave), insect repellent, a light jacket for cool evenings, and swimwear if you want to dip near waterfalls.
- Best time to visit: From February to May or September to November, during the main rice-growing and harvest seasons. The terraces are green or golden, and the weather is pleasant.
Where is Pu Luong?
Pu Luong Nature Reserve is in Thanh Hoa Province, in northern Vietnam. It’s around 160 km southwest of Hanoi – a 4.5 to 5-hour drive depending on road conditions. If you’re coming from Ninh Binh, the drive is about 3 hours, which makes it easy to include as part of a northern Vietnam loop. Public transport options are limited, so it’s easier to explore with a private driver or guide, or as part of a customised tour.
Have you been to Pu Luong or Don Village? Share your experience in the comments below!
