We went on a Ha Giang Loop motorbike adventure for three days and two nights with easyriders, which is when a local motorbike driver takes you as a passenger. This article shares what our 3-day itinerary and our adventure looked like: the good, the tough, and the unexpected. If you’re still unsure if you should do it, or you’re after practical tips to make the trip more enjoyable, check out my other post: Is the Ha Giang Loop the right adventure for you?
Summary of our Ha Giang Loop 3-day itinerary
- Arrival in Ha Giang: Thanh Thuy Border Crossing Gate, Thác số 6 waterfall, Nui Cam Mountain lookout. Night in Ha Giang City (Silk River Hotel*).
- Day 1 of the loop: Bac Sum Pass, Heaven’s Gate Quan Ba, Tham Ma Pass, H’mong King Palace. Night in Dong Van (Du H’Mong Hotel*).
- Day 2 on the loop: Lung Cu flag pole, Lô Lô village, Ma Pi Leng Pass, Nho Que river. Night in a homestay in Meo Vac (Cao Nguyen Da*).
- Day 3 on the loop: Meo Vac town lookout, way back to Ha Giang via Quan Ba. Then transfer to Hanoi.
Arrival in Ha Giang City
We arrived in Ha Giang early afternoon with a day bus from Sapa. We found this much more manageable than an overnight option. We’d considered the sleeper bus to save time and money, but were worried we’d arrive too tired and not get proper rest before starting the loop. In hindsight, we were really glad we avoided it. With the honking and the reckless driving, we wouldn’t have slept well on the bus. At our age, starting the ride feeling fresh makes a big difference, especially with long hours on the motorbike ahead.
In the afternoon, we met with our guide, Sam, and our driver, Toàn, to take a short trip to the Chinese border (Thanh Thuy Border Crossing Gate). While not scenic, it sparked an interesting conversation with our guide about the history and current relations between Vietnam and China. We also visited a waterfall (Thác số 6) for a refreshing dip in a place popular with locals (and further down the stream with water buffalos). We finished the day at Nui Cam Mountain lookout for a view of Ha Giang City around sunset time. It was a good introduction to being a motorbike passenger, which made the next day a bit easier.
Our hotel in Ha Giang, Silk River Hotel*, was spacious, which came in handy for sorting our bags before the ride. That said, the bathroom and furniture were a bit tired and stained, and the squeaky bathroom door didn’t help.
What it’s like on the Ha Giang Loop
The loop delivered on scenery. From towering limestone peaks to river valleys… it’s stunning. But this isn’t a leisurely ride through the countryside. The roads are busy with trucks, buses, occasionally with locals walking and even buffalos, and hundreds of other motorbikes. Some viewpoints were packed, others more peaceful.
Riding pillion for hours each day can be tough. I had a sore neck, shoulders and bum, and it gets a bit stressful when visibility is low or traffic picks up. I highly recommend going with an easy rider. Our drivers were experienced, knew the roads inside out and made the whole experience much safer and more enjoyable. There’s also the option to book a car tour if you’re not comfortable on a motorbike, dislike bumpy rides, or stress easily with traffic and weather risks.
Details of what we visited on the Ha Giang Loop
Right from the start of the road trip, every stop on the Ha Giang Loop felt like a much-needed break. We took plenty of breaks at viewpoints and cafés to enjoy the scenery, with a few additional stops for visits.
We visited the H’Mong King’s Palace, which is not visually impressive but historically interesting. It was an opportunity for our guide to give us some great insight into H’Mong culture and Vietnam’s past.
One of the best breaks from the motorbike was a boat trip on the Nho Que River. The colour of the river, especially from the top, is unbelievable. The scenery was stunning, and it felt good to be off the bike and relax while navigating the short canyon.
We went all the way to the northernmost point of the country. Our bums were happy to move and climb a few steps to reach the Lung Cu Flag Tower. It’s a huge flag of 54 square metres, representing the 54 ethnic groups in Vietnam. Nearby, we visited the charming and quiet Lô Lô Village, which was maybe a bit too quiet as I wish we could have learnt more about the Lô Lô people. We bought a buckwheat beer there as our guide told us it’s a specialty. It tasted quite different to what we’re used to, but we both really liked it.
First night in Dong Van
We spent our first night in Dong Van, at Du H’Mong Hotel*, in a room overlooking the mountains with a fancy-looking shower that sadly had no pressure and tricky temperature control.
A lively festival with locals dressed in traditional clothing from various ethnic groups was happening in town. We felt lucky to witness such a colourful and energetic scene. After a long day on the motorbike, we also got a massage at Nhu Y Spa. It was genuinely one of the best we had in Vietnam!
Second night in Meo Vac
Our second night was in a homestay in Meo Vac, at Cao Nguyen Da*. The town felt far less touristy than others, some would say there’s nothing to do there. We went for a walk in the late afternoon, watched locals play volleyball and kids running around with a football. It wasn’t packed with attractions or nightlife, but that’s exactly why we liked it.
Many travellers prefer to stay in Du Gia, which seems quite popular with backpackers looking to party (karaoke is big there). But we were happy with our route. The Du Gia waterfall can be crowded, and we were told groups often bring loud music. A traveller we met said there’s a path that leads away from the crowd for a better experience. But if you’re after a motorbike tour to a scenic waterfall, Ban Gioc* might be a better choice, especially after the wet season. Some tours combine it with the Ha Giang Loop*, but make sure you do your research about their quality and consider the time spent on the motorbike before booking.
The downside: rain, fog and stress
Our first day on the Ha Giang Loop was mostly sunny, with a brief but intense downpour that left us soaked. Luckily, the sun came back quickly, and since our drivers slowed down and we had rain gear, it ended up being more of a fun memory than a hassle. The second day was cloudy but still bright enough to enjoy the views – although sunshine is always a bonus. Thankfully, it stayed dry, as some of the walking paths to the viewpoints would’ve been far too slippery for my liking if it had rained.
However, the last day of our loop was mostly in thick fog and drizzle. We met a few travellers who shortened their 4-day itinerary because of the weather, and we completely understood. Visibility was poor, the roads were muddy and slippery, and we saw a couple of minor accidents and one more serious fall. We felt lucky we had great weather the first two days, and suddenly got a bit jealous of the travellers who were offered knee pads and elbow pads…
Have you thought about travel insurance?
We never go overseas without it, especially to cover medical expenses. In Vietnam, motorbike travel is common (for example, in Ha Giang or on city tours), so we made sure our policy covered that. It’s something worth checking, as it’s not always included. Some providers, like Cover-More*, offer options to easily include motorbike coverage if that’s relevant to your trip.
We returned to Ha Giang City just 20 minutes before our bus pickup to go back to Hanoi. If you’re planning the same, have a change of clothes ready. We weren’t wet or dirty so didn’t need a shower, but you might not be as lucky.
We thought we’d relax and snooze on the bus ride back to Hanoi. And while the bus itself was comfortable (especially after days on the motorbike), the driver was reckless. We quickly found ourselves missing our easy riders, who actually cared about how we felt on the road. Once back in Hanoi, we quickly re-arranged our luggage and re-packed a small bag for our next adventure: a Ha Long Bay cruise. After three bumpy days on the Loop, we were definitely looking forward to a more relaxed pace!
Quick tips for doing the Ha Giang loop on a motorbike
- What to expect: Spectacular mountain views, winding roads, and cultural/historical visits, but also sore muscles, changing weather, and bumpy rides.
- How long to stay: Tours vary from 2 to 4 days – we did 3 days and 2 nights and felt it was the right balance.
- How to get there: We took a day bus from Sapa; many travellers come from Hanoi or Sapa by sleeper bus, but we wanted to arrive well-rested.
- Where we stayed: Accommodation varied – basic hotel in Ha Giang City, scenic views but disappointing shower in the Dong Van, and excellent homestay in Meo Vac.
- Top highlights: The views, the festival night and a fantastic massage after a long day on the bike in Dong Van, connecting with our drivers.
- What to pack: Sunglasses, sunscreen, waterproof shoes, long pants and long sleeves on the motorbike (to protect your skin a bit if you fall and for sun protection), breathable jacket, scarf/buff, phone leash, earplugs, small essentials bag in addition to your backpack (which will be hard to access as it’s in a plastic bag attached to the bike), basic first aid kit and medication, swimming suit if you choose to stop at a waterfall.
- Best time to visit: Spring or autumn for more chances of clear skies – we went in mid-April and were lucky with the weather for the first two days.
How long should you spend on the Ha Giang Loop?
We chose to do the Ha Giang Loop over three days and two nights, and in hindsight, it felt like the ideal balance. It gave us enough time to enjoy the views, learn about the region’s history and cultures, and have meaningful stops and time to connect with our group – without feeling completely worn out. More days also give you a better chance of having good weather for at least part of your trip!
Why not longer? Riding as a passenger on a motorbike for hours each day is physically tiring, especially on bumpy roads and winding mountain passes, so we didn’t feel the need to stretch it out to four or five days. It’s always nice to see more places, but our time in Vietnam was limited, and we preferred to explore another region rather than spend more time on the Loop.
Still, we definitely wouldn’t have wanted to squeeze it into just two days. Why? You’d need to keep a much tighter schedule. I don’t like it when an experience feels rushed, and I was worried it would be exhausting with fewer stops and shorter breaks. Personally, if I only had time for two days, I would have chosen to do the Loop by car, so I could at least talk to the guide during the ride and rest more comfortably.
Also, the time and effort it takes to get to Ha Giang is something to factor in. It’s a remote region, and transfers from Hanoi or Sapa take most of a day. If you’re only planning to spend one night on the Loop, it barely feels worth the journey. You can take a sleeper bus to save time, but after seeing the driving style on the roads, we were really glad we didn’t – I wouldn’t have slept well anyway.
