A road trip through the Champagne region is like diving into a glass of its finest bubbly – entertaining, elegant, and filled with delightful surprises. Over three days in Champagne, we visited charming medieval towns, indulged in world-renowned Champagne, and soaked in the rich history and culture that this iconic region of France offers.
Day 1: Troyes – A medieval marvel
We started our three days in Champagne in the charming town of Troyes, a place full of cobblestone streets and half-timbered houses only 180km from Paris.
Known for its well-preserved medieval architecture, we spent the day wandering through narrow alleys, admiring the colourful facades that seemed to transport us back in time. But it’s not all about the old town. We enjoyed tasting the regional specialties, including andouillette and chaource cheese.
Restaurant recommendation
For lunch, we simply bought local cheese (chaource) and Champagne ham from the market (Les Halles) to put in a baguette. We had dinner at Aux Crieurs de Vin, which was good but, according to those visiting Troyes with us, not the best place in town for the famous andouillette.
Accommodation
There are many accommodation in the heart of the historic town centre*, but our options for two couples were limited as we booked at the last minute. We chose the Appartment La Cabane du Jardin*, as we liked its original look and ideal location. It’s above a bar so it’s not the best option if you seek quiet and an early night, plus there was traffic on the main road. However, it didn’t bother us too much and it was reasonably priced for two couples.
If you have time, we added one day in Provins to this itinerary. While not in Champagne, Provins is a famous UNESCO World Heritage site only 1h from Troyes by car.
Day 2: Épernay, Verzenay, and Hautvillers – The heart of Champagne
Our next two days in Champagne were dedicated to champagne itself. We started with Epernay’s surrounding countryside. You can get scenic views as you drive around the roads following the Champagne route. The small church of Chavot Courcourt, surrounded by vineyards is worth the detour, and we also enjoyed the views towards the church from the other side of the hill.
Next, you could visit Hautvillers, a village often referred to as the “Cradle of Champagne.” It’s where the monk Dom Pérignon is said to have perfected the Champagne-making process. Wandering through the charming small streets of Hautvillers, you can visit the abbey where Dom Pérignon is buried, a pilgrimage for any Champagne lover. You’ll find a few more lookouts (point de vue in French) nearby, in Hautvillers and Champillon.
Then it’s time to go to Épernay, the epicentre of Champagne production and known as the Capital of Champagne. We took a guided tour of the legendary Moët et Chandon cellars. Descending into the cool, dimly lit underground passages, we learned about the intricate process of Champagne making – from harvesting grapes by hand to the final corking of the bottles. The tour concluded with a tasting session, where we tried the complex flavours of one of the most-sold Champagnes on the international market.
We also enjoy our tasting at Comtesse Lafond, located in a beautiful chateau on the other end of the Avenue de Champagne. It was fun to walk on the famous Avenue and see all the famous and beautiful champagne houses. If we had more time, we would have liked to add a stop to Nicolas Feuillatte as we heard good thing about the special experience they offer with a sensorial experience.
If the weather allows it, take a tour in the captive balloon to get a glimpse at them from above, and enjoy the 360-degree breathtaking views.
Restaurant recommendation
We had dinner at Why Not, which was a good experience to have fine cuisine with original products without the overly fancy atmosphere. Their desserts were even more special, so keep space for a sweet bite at the end of your night.
Accommodation
We first thought of staying in the heart of Epernay so that we could easily walk to restaurants and Champagne houses without having to drive. We liked this studio with lovely views*, and there are also luxurious options to fully immerse in the Champagne vibes such as Le 25bis by Leclerc Briant*.
However, we finally preferred the idea of staying in a small charming village and fell for this small house in Hautvilliers*, which is a 20-minute drive from Epernay. In hindsight, I’d have preferred to stay in Epernay as Hautvilliers was very quiet during the low season.
Day 3: Reims – A royal finale
You cannot plan a full Champagne itinerary without visiting Reims.
On your way from Epernay to Reims, you’ll find Verzenay, a small village known for its vineyards and the iconic Verzenay Lighthouse. The unusual structure so far from the ocean offers a unique perspective on the region’s landscapes. At the top, we were rewarded with breathtaking views of the rolling vineyards around us. Nature lovers will want to make a short detour for a nature walk to spot the rare trees Faux de Verzy.
We visited a nearby vineyard for more Champagne tastings, Jean-Paul Morel, and they had a beautiful terrace with views of the lighthouse. It was great to have an experience with a smaller producer.
Then you should save time to visit Reims, known for its majestic cathedral where French kings were crowned. The Notre Dame de Reims Cathedral is a true Gothic gem, its soaring spires and intricate sculptures commanding admiration. You could also visit the Palais du Tau, the former residence of the archbishops of Reims, now a museum showcasing treasures from the cathedral or stop at the Musée des Beaux-Arts, with a great collection of paintings and sculptures. Or, if you didn’t have enough Champagne tasting, the famous Veuve Cliquot caves – only a 30-minute walk from the cathedral – make a very interesting visit. You’ll also find other big names in Reims, such as Tattinger and Pommery.
