Troyes is filled with rich history, stunning architecture, and cultural treasures. Located in the Champagne region of France, many French visitors know Troyes for its factory outlets, which are famous for bargain shopping (although not as good as they used to be). However, I believe the true charm of Troyes lies in its medieval historic centre with lovely half-timbered houses, churches and interesting museums.
- Tip: There are arrows you can easily follow for a circuit throughout the town – see the map here. The audio guide, available online for free or at the tourist office (7€), offers a 3-hour tour if you want to learn every detail about the town. However, I found it a bit long and preferred to make up my own itinerary. Another interesting option is to go on a tour with a local greeter.
Do you have more time to spend in the region? Check out this three-day itinerary in Champagne.
Morning: Exploring the historic centre
Start your day by wandering through Troyes’ charming historic centre, a gem of Gothic architecture and medieval charm. The narrow streets are lined with half-timbered houses that will transport you back in time.
We began at the Town Hall, which displays an unusual version of the French motto, “Liberté, Egalité, Fraternité… ou la mort” (“or death”). It’s rare to see “or death” included – I’ve never seen it elsewhere. This motto from the French Revolution was inscribed on public buildings during the Reign of Terror but didn’t last long, and it’s unclear why it stayed in Troyes and a nearby town Lagny.
From the town hall, you can spot the 13th-century Church of Saint-Jean-au-Marché. Look closely at the gargoyles while standing next to the town hall, and you’ll notice one shaped like a cannon. This was the work of a military architecture specialist, expressing his displeasure after being reassigned to the church’s construction. While in this area, stroll down Rue Champaux, Rue Paillot de Montabert with the Silversmith’s Tower, and Rue Maillard, famously known as Ruelle des Chats (“Cats’ Alley”) – the most iconic street in Troyes.
- Why it is special: The historic centre showcases beautifully preserved medieval architecture and winding cobbled streets that are a delight to explore.
- Tip: Make sure you enter the Sainte Madeleine Church, the oldest in Troyes (12th century), known for its intricate Flamboyant Gothic stone jubé – a partition between the chancel and the nave, the statue of Sainte-Marthe and beautiful stained glass windows of the 16th-century Champagne School.
Late morning: Maison de l’Outil et de la Pensée Ouvrière
The Maison de l’Outil et de la Pensée Ouvrière is a very unique museum that celebrates craftsmanship. It displays tools that showcase the skills passed down through generations, offering a window into the trades of the past and how they have shaped today’s industries. Be sure to admire the museum’s setting as well – the Hôtel Mauroy, one of the most beautiful and historically significant buildings in Troyes.
- Why it is special: This museum showcases over 12,000 handcrafted tools, probably the biggest collection of European handmade tools in the world.
- Tip: The museum closes from 12 pm to 2 pm for lunch, so plan your visit accordingly, especially if you start your day late. It may also be closed on Tuesdays depending on the season, so check opening hours online in advance.
Lunch at Les Halles, Troyes covered market
For a taste of local flavours, stop for lunch at Les Halles, Troyes’ indoor market. Completed in 1876, this 19th-century building is a fine example of iron architecture, featuring iron posts, moulded vaults, and large bay windows. What I find more interesting is the wonderful selection of regional products and fresh ingredients inside.
- Why it is special: Built in the 19th century, this market is the perfect place to experience the culinary delights of Troyes, from local cheeses to charcuterie.
- Tip: Be sure to try Andouillette de Troyes, a traditional pork sausage, or pick up Champagne ham, chaource cheese for a perfect lunch with local specialties (plus a fresh baguette from a nearby bakery).
Early Afternoon: canal walk along the Seine
After lunch, take a relaxing stroll along the Seine. The canal path offers a peaceful break and great photo opportunities. One highlight is the Heart of Troyes (Coeur de Troyes), created by local artists and made up of over 200 pieces, weighing 1.5 tonnes. Another sculpture, Lili au chapeau, by Hungarian artist András Lapis, is a favourite stop for photographers.
- Why it is special: The Seine plays a crucial role in the history and development of Troyes, facilitating trade and communication with the French capital. Today, the canals provide a scenic and historical backdrop for both locals and visitors to enjoy.
- Tip: If you’re still in Troyes after nightfall, return to the canals to experience the artwork and the cityscape in a different light, especially the illuminated Heart of Troyes.
Mid-afternoon: Discovering Cité du Vitrail
Then make your way to the Cité du Vitrail, an impressive space dedicated to the art of stained glass, a craft Troyes has mastered for centuries. Indeed, with more than 1,100 stained glass windows, many predating the French Revolution, spread across 200 buildings, Aube stands as one of the most prominent regions in France for this artistic heritage. Take your time to admire the fine details and craftsmanship of stained glass, which has played a significant role in decorating Troyes’ churches.
- Why it is special: Housed in the Hôtel-Dieu-le-Comte, the 3,000 m² space dedicated to stained glass art, showcases works from different eras and styles. By displaying these typically high-up pieces at eye level, it offers visitors a rare, close-up view of the intricate details, making stained glass more accessible and engaging for everyone.
- Tip: The Cité du Vitrail closes at either 5 pm or 6 pm, depending on the season (be sure to check online), so plan your visit accordingly to avoid arriving too late.
Late Afternoon: Pick a religious site to admire more stained glasses
With only one day in Troyes, you won’t have time to explore all the religious monuments, so you’ll need to choose between these three remarkable options: the Cathedral of Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul, famous for its stunning stained glass windows, the Basilica of Saint Urban, also known as the “Parthenon of Champagne,” or Église Saint-Pantaléon. Even if you get there too late to go inside, these monuments are well worth a stop to admire their striking architecture from the outside.
- Why it is special: Both the Basilica of Saint Urban and Église Saint-Pantaléon are tied to Pope Urban IV, who was born in Troyes. The Cathedral of Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul has one of France’s finest collections of stained glass, with over 1,500 square metres of painted glasswork.
- Tip: Be sure to check the opening hours in advance (basilica, church and cathedral), as these religious sites often close for lunch and after 6 pm.
Evening: Relax and savour Troyes’ cuisine
End your day with a relaxed dinner at one of Troyes’ charming restaurants. The local cuisine is hearty and full of flavour, with many dishes unique to the region. Find a restaurant close to the canals so that you can enjoy the beautiful illuminations, a lovely way to end your visit of Troyes.
- Why it is special: Troyes is known for its traditional andouillette sausage and local Champagne delicacies, including the famous chaource cheese.
- Tip: Le Juvenal is a charming lounge bar set in the historic Hôtel Particulier Juvénal des Ursins, a stunning 16th-century mansion on Rue Champeau. Its outdoor seating area adds to the ambiance, offering a delightful spot to enjoy a glass of local Champagne or one of their signature cocktails before or after dinner.
Where is Troyes?
Located about 180 km east of Paris, Troyes is easily accessible by train or car.
- By train: The SNCF operates regular TER and Intercités to Troyes, with the journey from Paris taking 1.5 to 2 hours, making Troyes a cheap and good day trip from Paris by train.
- By car: Troyes is connected by the A5 and A26 motorways, making it easy to drive from major cities. It takes just over 2 hours to drive there from Paris.