How to get around Rarotonga: do you need a car?

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My articles are based on my research and personal experience at the time of publication; things can change over time.

One of the first questions we had when planning our Cook Islands holiday was how to get around Rarotonga. Should we hire a car, rent a scooter or simply rely on the bus?

After spending 9 days exploring the island, we can confidently say that you don’t necessarily need a car in Rarotonga, but for our travel style, hiring one made the trip much more enjoyable. We were snorkelling at different beaches, hiking, scuba diving and trying restaurants all over the island. Having our own car meant we could change plans whenever we wanted without worrying about bus timetables or organising taxis.

Here’s our experience to help you decide what’s right for your trip.

How to get around Rarotonga

There are several ways to get around Rarotonga, and the best option depends on how you plan to spend your holiday.

Do you need a car in Rarotonga?

The short answer is no. Many visitors spend most of their holiday relaxing at their resort, join organised tours with hotel pick-up or use the local bus. If that’s your plan, hiring a car may not be worth the extra expense.

But for us, however, a car completely changed the holiday, and even improved it.

We stayed in beachfront accommodation with a kitchenette, so technically we could have survived without a car by being strategic with our activities. Instead, we snorkelled and enjoyed water sports in different parts of the island (depending on the wind and waves), went scuba diving twice, explored different hiking trails, tried multiple sunset spots and drove to restaurants every evening. We rarely repeated the same area twice in a day and completed the tour of the island multiple times.

One morning we might snorkel in Aroa Lagoon Marine Reserve, drive to the east of the island for lunch, kayak in Muri Lagoon in the afternoon, watch the sunset on the west coast and head back to Muri Market for dinner. Having a car meant we could adjust our plans depending on the weather or simply stop somewhere that looked interesting.

It also saved us a lot of time when hiking, as the bus would have dropped us on the main road rather than the start of the trail.

If you enjoy exploring rather than staying in one place, I think you’ll appreciate having your own vehicle.

Why we chose a car instead of a scooter

Our original plan was actually to rent a scooter.

Scooters are generally cheaper than cars and seemed like a fun way to explore such a small island. However, we soon discovered that visitors need an international motorcycle licence or must pass a local licence test at the police station. While the test isn’t considered difficult, we didn’t want to spend part of our holiday organising paperwork.

In the end, we hired a car instead, and we’re glad we did.

We visited during winter, and after snorkelling we often felt quite cold. Riding around on a scooter with wet hair and swimwear wouldn’t have been much fun. We also appreciated having somewhere dry to store our snorkelling gear, towels and hiking equipment throughout the day rather than having to return to our accommodation between activities.

The weather also reminded us we’d made the right decision. Although we had plenty of sunshine, we also experienced a few heavy showers during our stay. Rather than waiting for the rain to pass, we simply kept exploring.

We also felt more comfortable travelling by car, especially on wet roads and after dark. While scooters are a popular way to explore Rarotonga, they offer less protection from the weather and road conditions, so it’s worth considering what type of holiday you are planning.

What about the bus?

Rarotonga’s bus is a great budget and eco-friendly option, and many travellers use it successfully.

However, buses only run about once an hour in each direction. If you’re planning several activities in one day, missing a bus could mean a long wait and quickly throw off your schedule.

Some of the tours we booked also included transfers, so we took advantage of those when it was convenient. For example, we used the transfer for our guided Cross Island Track hike rather than driving ourselves.

If you’re planning a slower-paced holiday, the bus may be all you need – learn more about the timetable here. If you’re hoping to fit in snorkelling, hiking, restaurants and sightseeing each day, having your own vehicle makes everything much easier.

Active travel options (walking, cycling, e-scooters)

Because Rarotonga is relatively small, some people choose to walk or cycle. We even saw tourists riding e-scooters on the road.

While it’s certainly possible, we found there was more traffic than we expected and footpaths were uncommon. Walking is practical if you’re staying close to restaurants or beaches, but it’s not the best option if you want to explore different parts of the island.

We personally wouldn’t have felt comfortable cycling or walking long distances, particularly after dark. If you do, I’d recommend carrying a torch or wearing something reflective.

Interestingly, we expected to see more hitchhikers but hardly saw any during our stay. We only ended up giving a lift to one couple.

Our experience hiring a car in Rarotonga

We rented an automatic car from Rarotonga Rentals, conveniently located directly across the road from the airport.

Being able to walk there after landing and before our flight back home saved us both time and the cost of airport transfers, making it an easy choice.

We booked before arriving and were glad we did. Every one of their cars had already been rented when we collected ours, even though we noticed other companies still had a few vehicles available during our trip.

If you’re only planning to hire a car for a day or two outside the busy season, booking ahead is probably less important. However, for a longer stay like ours, I’d definitely book one in advance.

Our rental cost NZ$64 per day. The company also offered insurance for NZ$22.95 per day, but we declined because our travel insurance already covered rental vehicles. It’s worth checking your own policy before paying for additional cover.

Would I hire from them again? Yes. The location opposite the airport was incredibly convenient, the process was straightforward and we had no mechanical issues. The only downside was that our car was very well worn out. It wasn’t particularly attractive and showed plenty of dents and rust, although it drove perfectly well. If having a nicer vehicle is important to you, you may prefer another company. Ask if they can bring the car to the airport for you.

What it’s like driving in Rarotonga

Driving in Rarotonga is surprisingly easy.

There is one main road running around the coast and one inland road running roughly parallel in places, so it’s almost impossible to get lost. You can drive all the way around the island in about one hour without stopping. So it means that you are never more than half an hour away from any destination on the island.

Roads were generally in very good condition during our visit, with some sections appearing to have been recently resurfaced. Roads leading towards hiking areas sometimes become unsealed, but we never encountered anything difficult to drive.

Another thing we appreciated was how easy parking was.

We found free parking almost everywhere we visited, including snorkelling spots, restaurants and attractions. The busiest place was the Muri Night Market, but we still managed to find a space without too much trouble.

The main things to watch for are pedestrians and roaming dogs, especially after dark.

Tips for hiring a car in Rarotonga

• Book in advance if you’re hiring a car for your whole holiday, particularly during the busy season.
• Ask if they can bring the car to the airport when you land.
• Check whether your travel insurance covers rental vehicles before paying for extra insurance.
• Bring a phone holder and charging cable if you plan to use your phone for navigation.
• Download offline maps before arriving, although navigation is very straightforward.
• Keep a towel and reusable water bottle in the car so you’re always ready for a spontaneous swim or snorkel.
• Be careful of dogs on the roads, especially at night.
• Avoid parking beneath coconut trees (falling coconuts!).

Would we hire a car again?

Absolutely.

While you don’t need a car to enjoy Rarotonga, for us, hiring one gave us the freedom to experience much more of the island. We could snorkel wherever conditions were best, try as many restaurants as we wanted, head out on hikes and easily carry all our gear from one activity to the next.

If your idea of a perfect holiday is relaxing by the pool with the occasional tour, you can probably save your money.

If, like us, you enjoy making the most of every day and exploring as much as possible, I think hiring a car is one of the best decisions you can make.

How did you get around Rarotonga? Share your experience in the comments below!