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Most travellers visit Ninh Binh on a day trip from Hanoi and head back in the afternoon, missing the best part of the day – when the day trippers disappear and the region turns peaceful again. After a walk along the river in Tam Coc, we decided to visit Hoa Lu Old Town for dinner to see the lanterns. And it turned out to be even better than we expected – one of the highlights of our trip around Vietnam!
Why visit Hoa Lu Old Town
Hoa Lu Old Town is often overlooked by travellers, but it’s one of the best places in Ninh Binh to enjoy a lovely evening. The town sits by the river, surrounded by limestone mountains, and after sunset, the lanterns create a soft glow that makes the entire area feel magical.
To my surprise, I actually preferred the atmosphere here compared to Hoi An, which is the city most famous for its lanterns. In Hoa Lu Old Town, it felt calmer and more romantic.
It’s very easy to visit from Tam Coc – we simply took a Grab taxi and arrived in about 10 minutes. You can also join a tour if you prefer. The streets are safe and pleasant to walk around at night, with enough lighting to wander comfortably. The atmosphere is relaxed and local, with families dining outside and a few couples strolling along the riverbanks.
Things to do in Hoa Lu Old Town in the evening
Walk along the river and enjoy the lanterns
The riverfront is lined with colourful lanterns, making it one of the most photogenic places in Ninh Binh after dark. It’s worth taking your time to walk slowly and enjoy the reflections on the water.
Climb to the viewpoint
Just behind the main street, there’s a small hill you can climb for a nice view of the town. It’s only about 50 metres high, and the steps are well maintained. The short climb gives you a beautiful panorama of the lanterns and lights below.
Visit the temples on the river
One of the most beautiful temples in Hoa Lu Old Town is Chùa Bạc, which means Silver Pagoda. It sits right in the middle of the river near Chùa Kỳ Lân. The temple looks fairly new, but it’s built in a traditional Vietnamese style with intricate carvings on the walls that depict local legends and scenes from the region’s history.
At night, the soft lighting highlights these details beautifully, creating a peaceful and almost magical atmosphere. What made our visit even more special was that there weren’t many people around so the atmosphere was relaxing and we could take our time to admire the building and the carvings.
Have dinner by the water
We chose a small restaurant along the river more or less at random and ordered phở. It was slightly more expensive than in less touristy areas, but the view made it worth it. Later, we found dessert nearby – a soft, sweet pastry called King Roti – the perfect way to end the evening.
Enjoy a boat cruise
If you have more time in the evening, you can also take a short boat cruise along the river. It’s a newer activity in Hoa Lu Old Town, with small wooden boats offering rides past the lanterns and temples. We didn’t try it ourselves, but it looked peaceful and photogenic – especially with the reflections on the water.
Check out the night market
There’s a small night market on a street parallel to the river, behind the restaurants. It wasn’t the highlight of our visit, but it’s nice for a short stroll if you enjoy browsing local stalls.
Quick tips for visiting Hoa Lu Old Town in the evening
- What to expect: A peaceful riverside town lit with colourful lanterns, temples to explore by the water, and a calm, romantic atmosphere after dark.
- How long to stay: A few hours in the evening is enough, but it’s worth spending at least two days in Ninh Binh to visit the most famous attractions without the day trippers.
- How to get there: Hoa Lu Old Town is about a 10-minute drive from Tam Coc or 15 minutes from Ninh Binh City. We took a Grab taxi. If you prefer, you can also join a tour.
- Where we stayed: We based ourselves at Tam Coc Holiday Hotel & Villa (read our review). The area was quiet and lovely in the late afternoon.
- Top highlights: The colourful lanterns and the illuminated temple on the river.
- What to pack: Nothing special – just your camera or phone for night photos. As you’ll be visiting temples, make sure to dress appropriately (cover your shoulders and legs).
- Best time to visit: After sunset, when the lanterns are lit.
Where is Hoa Lu Old Town
Hoa Lu Old Town is located in the Ninh Binh province of northern Vietnam, about 100 kilometres south of Hanoi. Despite its name, the “Old Town” is a newer riverside area built near the ancient capital of Hoa Lu, which was once Vietnam’s political centre in the 10th and 11th centuries. The modern town has been designed with traditional-style architecture, lanterns, and temples that create a charming atmosphere at night.
