Climbing the Mua Cave stairs to Lying Dragon Mountain in Ninh Binh

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If you’re planning a trip to Ninh Binh, chances are you’ve come across the famous Lying Dragon Mountain at the top of the Mua Cave stairs. It’s one of the most iconic viewpoints in Vietnam, offering panoramic views over limestone cliffs and rice fields. But those perfect photos don’t tell you what it’s really like to climb up there. Here’s an overview of my experience to help you understand if it’s the right attraction for you.

How hard is climbing the Mua Cave stairs?

The Mua Cave stairs count about 500 steps, roughly the equivalent of climbing a 20-storey building. For us, it wasn’t particularly difficult – especially compared to the Tiger Cave in Krabi (Thailand), which we’d climbed a year earlier. We’re used to heat and humidity, but I can see how it could be challenging if you’re not used to tropical conditions.

We visited Ninh Binh as part of a group tour, and some people in our group, who weren’t used to physical activity or the heat, were only halfway up by the time given by our guide to return to the bus. But the heat isn’t the only challenge. The Mua Cave stairs aren’t regular stairs – the steps are uneven, irregular in height, and can be quite slippery, especially after rain or on humid days. Even on our dry visit, I saw a couple of people slip and fall (luckily with only a few scratches). They were both trying to go too fast. The key is to pace yourself, take breaks, and use the small platforms to admire the view and the beautiful stone carvings of dragons and phoenixes along the way.

If you’re reasonably fit and used to warm weather, you can expect to reach the top in less than 30 minutes. Otherwise, take it slow and allow even up to an hour if you don’t exercise often. There’s no need to rush – going too fast only makes it less enjoyable.

Tips for climbing safely

I don’t think the Mua Cave stairs are dangerous if you’re comfortable with stairs and take your time – though they could be very tough on dodgy knees.

My biggest tip is to wear good shoes, ideally with grip (definitely not thongs!), and start your visit with the climb. That way, you’re not worrying about getting back to your bus in time and can take the time you need. If you finish earlier than expected, you’ll have time to explore the lower part of the complex afterwards or reward yourself with a drink at one of the cafés at the base.

Bring more water than you think you’ll need, as there’s no shade once you start climbing. Toilets are only available at the bottom, so it’s best to use them before you begin.

Crowds can also make the climb harder. I recommend spending at least one night in Ninh Binh, so you can visit Mua Cave before the day-trippers arrive. If you visit during busy times, don’t let others pressure you to move faster – it’s important to go at your own pace. Use the handrail where available or steady yourself with the wall for balance, and if you’re a bit slow, stick to the side to let others pass safely.

The hardest part is near the top, where the stairs become steeper and rockier. I was still recovering from ACL surgery when I visited, so I carefully looked for the easiest path up and down. Going down was actually harder – the uneven steps and slippery surface made it a bit uncomfortable – but thankfully there’s a handrail for part of the way, which helped ease the pressure on my knee. If you have hiking poles, they could be useful for the descent. I ended up creating a small group of people who liked following my cautious approach, and we all made it down safely together.

What it’s like at the top of Lying Dragon Mountain

The stairs lead to two main viewpoints: one with a small pagoda, and another with the Lying Dragon statue guarding the top of the mountain, just above the main viewing platform. The views from both are stunning.

However, the dragon at the top was a bit of a disappointment. While it looks amazing in photos, in person it was crowded and chaotic. There was a long queue to reach the dragon’s head because many people blocked the narrow path, taking selfies or getting stuck on the rocks. It’s not the place to try scrambling for the first time, especially given the height, sharp rocks, and crowds. We even saw a few people who needed help getting down, which held everyone up.

Even worse, some visitors weren’t respectful of the site, grabbing the dragon statue for photos. I can only hope it’s strong enough to withstand the constant handling. The atmosphere wasn’t peaceful, so I quickly turned around rather than waiting. These kinds of photo-driven spots aren’t for me. If you manage to go all the way to the head, you’d be lucky if you get a view without people taking their time to pose for their perfect Instagram shot.

That said, the rest of the viewpoint was spectacular. You don’t need to reach the very top with the Lying Dragon to enjoy Mua Cave – the middle and lower platforms already offer incredible panoramas without the chaos.

Is the Mua Cave viewpoint worth visiting?

Absolutely. Despite the crowds and the steep climb, the Mua Cave viewpoint is one of the best places to see Ninh Binh from above and one of the highlights of our trip around Vietnam. If you come with the right expectations – that it will be busy, you won’t get your perfect photo, and the climb won’t be easy – you’ll appreciate the effort it takes to reach such an incredible view. I just wish we had planned our visit better so we could have gone up there without the day trippers.

Where is Mua Cave and the Lying Dragon Mountain?

Mua Cave is located about 100 kilometres south of Hanoi, roughly a 2-hour drive depending on traffic. You can visit as a long day trip from Hanoi, but I recommend spending at least two days in Ninh Binh to explore at a relaxed pace and without the crowd.

Stay overnight nearby, so you can climb the Mua Cave stairs early in the morning before the day tours and the heat arrive. In the evening, don’t miss Hoa Lu Old Town, which is lovely after sunset with its lanterns, temples, and riverside restaurants.